Monday 24 February 2014

The penultimate post, 15 elephants in a car park and dancing with artificial christmas trees on your head


Morning all, its 07:30 and it must have rained in the night as the ground is damp and its a cool 26 C this morning. In just over two weeks we will fly back to the UK after 5 months here in Kovalam. I've decided this will be our last post from here in India, I will knock out a photo edition on our return, when i'll have more time to sort and edit them. Until then here is a random picture to be going on with. I spoke to my mom earlier in the week who asked if we were ready to return and have we "got it out of our system?" (not quite sure what she meant by IT) but i gave her an honest answer.

No.

I'm not saying we haven't missed friends and relatives and that there weren't times when being so far away from the kids wasn't difficult because they were, but life here is good for us. I could try and justify it in economic terms, rent on the apartment being less than our gas bill, cost of living etc. and no doubt that helps but being here has been about much more than money.

I could also go on about the health benefits we have enjoyed, I've lost what must be getting on for 3 stone (i tried on my belt last night and from being on the last notch I will now need to cut a new hole to wear it, none of my swim shorts fit and I have to pull the draw strings tight to avoid losing them in the sea and both of my knees work without complaint).

Its not just about being warm, the sunshine or the longer daylight hours, though the thought of returning to cold, dark damp mornings fills me with dread.

Nor is it the great hospitality and kindness we have been shown by our new friends.

Its India, it gets under your skin and into your blood, the chaotic and serene, poverty and affluence, spiritual and materialistic, living side by side. As I've said before this place assails, offends and delights the mind and senses like no other i've known. 

We have already begun to plan for later this year, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos and then back to India for winter 2014/15.

15 Elephants in a car park

Last week Ruth, Sarah's second cousin, came to visit for a couple of weeks. It was interesting to watch someone's reactions to what we have come to see as "normal". While she was here we went to see a temple festival just north of Trivandrum in a smallish village as we had heard there were to be elephants. And there were, 15 of them, fully grown Indian Elephants. We arrived early and got to see them being dressed for the parade. Our first elephant sighting was on a plot of land just off the main village street, it was being rested after being brought in for the ceremony, she was a 30 year old female and to be honest looked tired and a little worse for wear. She was standing in the shade under a tree and her Mahoot was trying to get some rest a few feet from her. In her trunk she held a coconut palm frond, about 5 ft long, and was using it as a giant fan/fly swat casually waving it around as though it was as light as a feather. We took a few photos and were about to leave when our driver told us there was another elephant in the garden next door. He wasn't joking, just over the wall in someones front garden there was a young 15 year old male elephant, he stood bright eyed, stripping palm leaves with his trunk and pushing the fronds into his enormous mouth. The dexterity he displayed with his trunk was absolutely amazing. Its only when you stand 3 ft away from an elephant, with no bars or fences between you do you truly appreciate the size and strength of these magnificent animals. They way they look at you, size you up and seem to be aware of all that is going on, this is no big cow, there is a spark of "knowing" behind those large dark eyes. We stood and watched in awe, and then noticed that the family who owned he house where he has resting were all outside with cameras, clicking away ten to the dozen, not taking pictures of the elephant but of us. To them we were the "strange and exotic beasts" in the garden, we were the visitors who they would dine out on for months to come.

 "Do you remember when that enormous white, i say white he was actually bright red, man and those two women were in our garden? He was over 6 ft tall i didn't know they were that big until i stood next to him. The way he drank a whole liter of water in one go!!! I think he was hot even though it was only 30 C"

After we had talked to the house owners daughter, she told us they have an elephant in the garden every year, we followed the elephant down the road to the temple car park to see him dressed with the others.

When we got there, there were 3 elephants waiting some with their ceremonial head dresses in place, chomping on whole banana plants and taking things in their stride. The police were already there checking the registration documents of the animals and mahoots alike, no certificates of health for the elephant or correct documentation no parade and a spell in jail. Temple elephants are well looked after and strict rules enforced in their use, these are prized and potentially dangerous animals. All was in order, i.e. the elephants and mahoots passed muster and the elephants hadn't killed anyone in the previous four weeks (this is not a joke, its one of the rules, if they had, they would have had to have had "the nod" from the Wildlife and Forestry Commission before they could be used).

Quickly the four elephants became six, then ten, then thirteen and finally we were surrounded by 15 elephants in a space 50 x 50 meters, all being dressed for the parade, a truly awe inspiring sight.

Meanwhile at a stage on the edge of the car park we were treated to a display of drumming, martial arts and dance while surrounded by elephants who just stood there, watching us watching them as they ate their lunch.

Then in a moment worthy of Monty Python six men appeared on the stage. On each of  their heads was balanced what i can only describe as a 4 ft tall 3 ft wide silver artificial christmas tree covered in brightly coloured tin foil flowers. They then in all solemnity proceeded to dance, it was totally surreal. I didn't know if i should be amazed, impressed, or just howl with laughter. It was so..... India.

Ok thats it until we are back in the UK, I have dosas getting cold and a beach getting hot to see to.

Have a good week

K&S
xxx










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